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                          “清國小鎮”,見證吉長鐵路的世紀風雨

                          來源:城市晚報(長春)

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                          吉長鐵路醫院內部一片瓦礫

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                          吉長鐵路醫院舊址

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                          俱樂部遺址

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                          鐵路醫院舊址

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                          鐵路商店屋頂的煙囪

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                          踏查長春團隊成員研討吉長鐵路

                            

                            甲午年正月廿六日,午后的長春市四通路上顯得格外清靜,長春第一外國語中學校園內的籃球場上,一群學生正在上體育課,他們矯健的身影在藍天下顯得格外耀目,偶爾傳出的喧鬧也讓這片沉寂的街區生動起來。恍惚中,耳邊似有民國之初走向街頭那些愛國青年的吶喊聲,只是抬眼望去,不遠處幾棟林立的高樓提示著今昔的巨變。
                           
                            已近七旬的陳學奎是長春市政協文史專員,也是此次探訪的向導。2013年11月份,陳老師和“踏查長春”團隊的33名成員曾多次來過這里,他們當中包括文史專員、專家學者和部分熱衷長春歷史文化的民間人士。
                           
                            在東站社區的棚戶區里,他們認真細致地考證這片清末民初所建的鐵路遺址和其他古建筑舊址,對這組青磚建筑群進行測量和資料搜集。之后,還召集一些文史專家搞過兩次小型專題研討,會后形成社情民意送交有關部門。
                           
                            他的手里一直拿著一張民國時期的吉長鐵路站舍街區地圖,他說這是長春歷史建筑保護專家李之吉提供的。雖然上面的圖像和字跡都有些模糊,但每一處建筑的方位還能清楚地與現存的地面設施對接上。
                           
                            據民國十三年(1924年)三月十七日《大公報》(天津)載,“吉長鐵路于二月十一日晚八時,大樓走電失火,因井小枯竭,無法救,直燒到十二時始熄。”后來這座建筑進行了重修,但相繼又著過幾次大火。
                           
                            按照地圖上的標注,他引領我們沿四通路走進一百多年前那段飽受凌辱的歷史。
                           
                            同行的攝影師董競琦多年前為拍火車就曾找到這里,還從第一外國語學校的沈校長那里看到過一張小白樓的老照片,欣喜中將其翻拍下來。
                           
                            陳學奎說,扶輪小學就是長春東站小學,這所專門為長春東站鐵路家屬開辦的學校當時非常有名,《人民文學》出版社第一任總編輯韋君宜曾就讀于這所小學。還有一位中國科學院院士、我國金屬物理奠基人柯俊。
                           
                            小白樓區域呈回字形,曾為吉長鐵路局,也就是長春市第一外國語學校現在的辦公樓所在位置,它的后身東側是鐵路俱樂部。東南面一排房子為吉長鐵路醫院,附近還有幾棟住宅,屋舍尚在。后來將俱樂部改為吉敦鐵路總局,附近建有吉長鐵路官長住宅。吉長鐵路線南側的工廠扒掉后建起了電爐廠,周邊相繼又建起了柴油機廠、拖拉機廠等。
                           
                            這個小鎮就叫“清國小鎮”。
                           
                            一條鐵路將其分為南北兩部分,在這個兩萬平米的地面上,有一萬多平米用來建了車站和鐵路局營運、管理的房子。
                           
                            吉長鐵路醫院最早是幾個小的診所,吉長鐵路賺錢之后才在其北側蓋了一所大的醫院,也就是現在那棟殘缺的老房子。
                           
                            警務段共分兩部分。現在臨河街立交橋一帶是當時煉瓦取土的窯地,前面一條小鐵軌直接通到鐵北二道溝的中東鐵路。在這邊取土燒磚運到那邊蓋房子,民國初期那些建筑多數都是從這取土到磚瓦室,再制坯燒窯用于建筑的。
                           
                            尋訪小鎮站舍
                           
                            沿四通路外國語中學門前向東前行百米左右,拐進一條胡同,這條胡同邊上就是當年作為吉長鐵路管理局的“小白樓”,可惜早已拆掉,連磚墻也看不到了。
                           
                            陳老師說,小白樓的位置就在外國語學校的西門,長春早年有十多個叫小白樓的地方,包括長影、張景惠東宅、二道溝東鐵票房等。
                           
                            當穿過胡同來再拐向懷德南路時,景象就大不一樣了。陳老師輕車熟路地將我們帶到了一片荒草蔽履瓦礫鋪路的殘屋旁,指向不遠處一段塌掉一半的殘垣斷墻說,那就是俱樂部的舊址,兩層磚墻一眼就能看出區別,那層青磚就是早年日本人建這所房子留下的,而那層紅磚就是后來翻修過的。
                           
                            與俱樂部僅一條馬路之隔的南對面,就是保存相對完好的鐵路醫院。
                           
                            這是一座極具清末民初風格的建筑。陳學奎對那些保存依舊完好的拱門和拱廊格外器重,顯然拱廊內層的磚都是后來補上去的,一眼就能看出年代上的差別。陳老師說,原來這些拱廊與道臺衙門的完全一樣,不過道臺衙門歷史上也進行過多次修葺,自然也不是原先的樣子了。
                           
                            踩著尚未融化干凈的冰雪,深一腳淺一腳地鉆進一道門洞。這是一座骨架尚好的古建筑,里面可拆的木板鐵器等有用的材料早已沒了蹤影,原有的房間分布也難以辨識,拆出的磚石瓦礫堆在過道里,每一步都需格外小心。
                           
                            但從整個建筑的內部仍可分辨出掛號班、診室等室內結構。就在屋內中心的位置,被拆得透亮的棚壁上有一個特別用木條圍成的方孔,這也引起了陳老師的格外關注。他說這是一個通風櫥,上面原先有個方形的雕刻板,與故宮里的完全一樣。
                           
                            通過外廊走廊可進到后面的院子。根據陳老師的考證,這座建筑的年代應為民國以后建筑,距今已有一百多年。踏查長春團隊曾就其藝術價值認真研究過,認為這種外廊為六拱的設計風格在東北也算不多見的。
                           
                            這六個拱廊其實全部為外廊,類似于南京的梅園新村那種設計。但是現在看到的拱廊有直通到地面的,也有通到一半下面就被磚砌上的,因為后期在使用時做了改建,包括屋子里后搭的火炕,雖然有些不倫不類,但整體上仍清晰保持著那個時代特有的風格。
                           
                            墻磚的規格也很特別,既不是日本常用的那種小磚,也不是后來經常看到的普通磚,比普通磚還要稍大一點。還有一點,就是屋檐下方用紅磚砌出的兩道紅線,這是一種裝飾性設計。由此可見當時就已經能造出紅磚了,只不過造價頗高,并不被廣泛使用。這一發現對建筑物斷代很有價值。
                           
                            從吉長鐵路醫院舊址出來,緊臨醫院東側還有幾處老房子,兩處相隔不足五十米的平房,曾經的鐵路消費組合(商店),外墻破損嚴重,倒是東面那處有兩個精美的煙囪,陳老師,整個長春再也沒有比這更精致的煙囪了。他說一會兒讓你們看看那邊,還有面很漂亮的墻。
                           
                            遺憾的是,我們看到了一大堆新鮮的廢墟,那面有著漂亮外型構造的磚墻倒掉了,附近的居民說就在年前。這讓陳老師驚呀不已,表情也暗淡下去。“上次來的時候這面墻還好好地,這才幾天的工夫呢。”
                           
                            這時,同行的小刁在一片瓦礫中發現了那塊通風櫥上的雕刻板,中間為銅錢形狀,雖歷經百年風雨卻完好無損。
                           
                            清國站
                           
                            建于1912年的長春東站最初叫清國站,1934年以后稱東站,1945年改為東長春站,1959年被稱作長春東站。初期只是個擁有3條到發線、5條調車線、1條貨物線的小站,不僅設備陳舊,而且牽出線短,分類線少,與頭道溝站(長春站)無法比擬。
                           
                            新中國成立后鐵道部多次投資改造長春站行車和客貨運設備, 1980年投入130萬進行了第一期擴建,增加4條調車線,2條貨物線和1條牽出線,設復式信號機3架和上水線、清灰線各一條。后續又多次進行投資建設,動力和基礎設施不斷完善。
                           
                            1903年的吉長鐵路長春站(東)站區規劃最終選址在商埠東門外伊通河東,距頭道溝站2公里,占地面積約1平方公里,鐵道線以北為站臺、站舍、通訊、電務、機務段等。鐵道線南為吉長鐵路工場,工場西是警務營房,工場以南是扶輪小學、鐵路辦公樓、俱樂部、鐵路醫院。普通職工宿舍、商店等位于鐵路工場東南處。
                           
                            據史料記載,1910年,吉長鐵路局在長春東站南四通路建成占地面積約2萬平方米的基礎設施,系吉長鐵路局自行設計,房屋基本為磚混結構,平面結構呈“回”字形,三層圈樓朝西,外形簡潔,出入口門廊用4根變異塔什干柱式,山花處嵌有路徽裝飾,屋頂有老虎窗,極具西方建筑風格。是當時長春著名建筑工程之一,也屬伊通河東岸唯一一座樓房,1945年遭破壞。
                           
                            吉長鐵路工場位于“東新京站”附近,民國五年設立并開業,后增設了機車車間、木工車間、鑄工車間。1936年機構改革后改稱為新京鐵道工場,移歸總局管理。里面有機車車間8棟,客車車間1棟,貨車車間3棟,共占地11421平方米。
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